Gosh, I haven't updated in ages!
We are doing good, critters are all well. It has been crazy snowy and cold here.
Amelia (tort Holland lop) is pregnant and due next week, I am excited to see what she produces. She will be moving into the house soon as I want to keep a close eye on her. I'm going to be breeding Bluebell to Lucky soon.
I just bred Moon (blue SF) to Forest again and we will see how that goes, breeding is always tricky this time of year. I also need to do a preg check on Lentil (black SF) to see if she took.
I have a lot of tattooing to take care of this weekend and then listing a couple young SF for sale. I currently have some nice big black bucks (Oscar x Lentil) and a good looking first litter from Juniper (Oscar x Juniper)
Maran chickens have started laying and I love having such a variety of egg colours, pretty cool.
Friday, January 10, 2014
Wednesday, August 21, 2013
How to buy and sell
A surprising amount of people suck at buying and selling rabbits so I thought I would do a little guide. It's really not hard to be good at this. People exchange money for rabbits, everyone is happy. I've had some super experiences and some really odd ones as both buyer and seller.
How to be an amazing buyer
Be clear about what you want, do a little research beforehand so you can say "Hi, I'm looking for a blue Holland Lop buck, what do you have available?" rather then "I want a bunny but not really sure what I want so send me all your pictures and lots of detailed descriptions so I can say "no that's not what I think I want " Also known as "don't waste someone's time."
If the seller doesn't have what you want or is out of your price range then say "no, thanks" and look elsewhere, totally easy and polite but generally omitted step.
When you find the bunny of you dreams, be on time to the pickup place and have the money ready in a form that is acceptable to the seller. Don't be freaked out if the seller has a closed barn and wants to meet at a public location, there are some nasty rabbit illnesses around and many people keep a closed herd, doesn't mean they are hiding something.
If you have other rabbits, quarantine your new rabbit when you take it home, a seemingly healthy rabbit can harbor nasty illnesses that can infect your whole herd.
How to be an amazing seller
Know your stock and prices, It's nice when someone is on top of things.
Respond promptly to inquiries, Life gets in the way sometimes, but I try to respond within a day or two and generally by the same mode of communication (email back, call back) Be honest about your stock, their health and productivity. Take the time to take good photos, make sure the rabbit is posed correctly for it's breed.
Don't be shy to let people know your prices, a buyer shouldn't have to stalk you to get a price. I have had to email people multiple times to get a price and honestly I'm less likely to buy from someone when they are weird about it. Be open to offers but don't feel pressured to sell for less. Be upfront about your stock and able to answer questions, we want people to enjoy their rabbits.
Keep good records and make sure the buyer gets the necessary paperwork. If selling pedigreed rabbits make sure the buyer knows not to change your prefix on rabbits they purchased, pretty simple to keep track of because a rabbit born in your rabbitry gets your prefix.
Send a little feed along to make sure the rabbit does well in it's new home.
How to be an amazing buyer
Be clear about what you want, do a little research beforehand so you can say "Hi, I'm looking for a blue Holland Lop buck, what do you have available?" rather then "I want a bunny but not really sure what I want so send me all your pictures and lots of detailed descriptions so I can say "no that's not what I think I want " Also known as "don't waste someone's time."
If the seller doesn't have what you want or is out of your price range then say "no, thanks" and look elsewhere, totally easy and polite but generally omitted step.
When you find the bunny of you dreams, be on time to the pickup place and have the money ready in a form that is acceptable to the seller. Don't be freaked out if the seller has a closed barn and wants to meet at a public location, there are some nasty rabbit illnesses around and many people keep a closed herd, doesn't mean they are hiding something.
If you have other rabbits, quarantine your new rabbit when you take it home, a seemingly healthy rabbit can harbor nasty illnesses that can infect your whole herd.
 |
| Lucky looks cute here but this photo doesn't tell a prospective buyer anything except look at his snoot. |
Know your stock and prices, It's nice when someone is on top of things.
Respond promptly to inquiries, Life gets in the way sometimes, but I try to respond within a day or two and generally by the same mode of communication (email back, call back) Be honest about your stock, their health and productivity. Take the time to take good photos, make sure the rabbit is posed correctly for it's breed.
Don't be shy to let people know your prices, a buyer shouldn't have to stalk you to get a price. I have had to email people multiple times to get a price and honestly I'm less likely to buy from someone when they are weird about it. Be open to offers but don't feel pressured to sell for less. Be upfront about your stock and able to answer questions, we want people to enjoy their rabbits.
Keep good records and make sure the buyer gets the necessary paperwork. If selling pedigreed rabbits make sure the buyer knows not to change your prefix on rabbits they purchased, pretty simple to keep track of because a rabbit born in your rabbitry gets your prefix.
Send a little feed along to make sure the rabbit does well in it's new home.
Thursday, August 8, 2013
Basics of a more natural diet
I feel it is easy to raise extremely healthy rabbit, with a forage based diet. Rabbits are naturally
herbivores, they have evolved to eat a wide variety of grasses, herbs,
bark and plants. I should clarify by saying I am not anti pellet, I just feel you can provide a very healthy diet without commercial rabbit pellets. With most pellets I don't feel you get what you pay for (the exception being Sherwood Forest rabbit pellets, very high quality and when I feed a pellet, I choose this one.) Commercial rabbit pellets are primarily composed of alfalfa, grain, some fat, salt, vitamins and minerals. All of which can be provided separately for less cost. A natural diet takes a lot more time and effort but I feel the results are worth it.
My buns get free choice grass hay year round as I've found this cuts down on a lot of digestive issues. I also feed alfalfa cubes to up the protein and there is less waste with alfalfa cubes versus alfalfa hay, although some people feed alfalfa hay in a hay feeder. Many rabbits won't eat alfalfa pellets, maybe due to the large size or taste. One day a week is a hay only day. The amount of grain I feed varies on season, they get a lot of green food in the summer and more grain in the winter. The amount also varies based on the rabbits condition, age, weather and if they are cleaning up their rations. This way of feed does require you to pay very close attention to how the rabbit's condition, attitude and health. Trace mineral salt block is very important, there is salt included in commercial rabbit pellets and your rabbit can get a serious deficiency if you neglect to provide a salt lick for them. I harvest a lot of fresh grass, weeds and herbs (primarily Nettles, Comfrey, Dandelion, Mulberry and Alfalfa, detailed here)
I feed whole grains, specifically oats and barley. The amounts varies with the season, in summer they get less grains as more of the rabbit's dietary needs are met by fresh grass, herbs and hay. In the winter I feed more grain to maintain body condition and help keep them warm. Nursing does and growing rabbits get more, year round. My grain feeding is a little unusual, Initially I had a lot of issues with waste with a grain mix because the rabbits would eat what they liked and scratch through the mix. To solve this I started alternating grains, oats one day and barley the next. I often top dress the grain feed with some black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS) or flax. This means more tubs in the feed area but less grain being wasted. The amount works out to about 1/4 to 1/2 cup a day per adult rabbit, depending on size, young rabbits get more and also get more alfalfa as they have higher protein needs. All bunnies always have mineral/salt licks, you can get blocks made for horses and knock chunks off.
So to recap I feed
1. grass hay and alfalfa cubes
2. oats, barley, boss and flax (alternated)
3. fresh grass and weeds (in season)
4. salt/mineral lick
My buns get free choice grass hay year round as I've found this cuts down on a lot of digestive issues. I also feed alfalfa cubes to up the protein and there is less waste with alfalfa cubes versus alfalfa hay, although some people feed alfalfa hay in a hay feeder. Many rabbits won't eat alfalfa pellets, maybe due to the large size or taste. One day a week is a hay only day. The amount of grain I feed varies on season, they get a lot of green food in the summer and more grain in the winter. The amount also varies based on the rabbits condition, age, weather and if they are cleaning up their rations. This way of feed does require you to pay very close attention to how the rabbit's condition, attitude and health. Trace mineral salt block is very important, there is salt included in commercial rabbit pellets and your rabbit can get a serious deficiency if you neglect to provide a salt lick for them. I harvest a lot of fresh grass, weeds and herbs (primarily Nettles, Comfrey, Dandelion, Mulberry and Alfalfa, detailed here)
I feed whole grains, specifically oats and barley. The amounts varies with the season, in summer they get less grains as more of the rabbit's dietary needs are met by fresh grass, herbs and hay. In the winter I feed more grain to maintain body condition and help keep them warm. Nursing does and growing rabbits get more, year round. My grain feeding is a little unusual, Initially I had a lot of issues with waste with a grain mix because the rabbits would eat what they liked and scratch through the mix. To solve this I started alternating grains, oats one day and barley the next. I often top dress the grain feed with some black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS) or flax. This means more tubs in the feed area but less grain being wasted. The amount works out to about 1/4 to 1/2 cup a day per adult rabbit, depending on size, young rabbits get more and also get more alfalfa as they have higher protein needs. All bunnies always have mineral/salt licks, you can get blocks made for horses and knock chunks off.
So to recap I feed
1. grass hay and alfalfa cubes
2. oats, barley, boss and flax (alternated)
3. fresh grass and weeds (in season)
4. salt/mineral lick
Thursday, July 25, 2013
Herbs for rabbits
I'm working on a post about natural feeding for rabbits but since I can only type when Smooshy is sleeping it is taking a bit. So here is a shorter post on my favorite rabbit herbs, these are the herbs I feed on a regular basis for general bunny health. This a short list of my favorites and I will do another soon because my experience is always growing and I'm branching (ahem) out into new territories all the time.
The amounts are not set in stone, an average sized rabbit will eat around a tablespoon of dried herb, which might be a small handful of fresh. Pay attention to the rabbit's appetite and preferences. Obviously use common sense in introducing new foods and feed herbs with a well balanced bunny diet.
This list is provided for informational purposes only. To the best of my knowledge, all the plants listed here are safe for rabbits when fed in moderation as directed
Nettles
(Urtica dioica)
part used: leaves, dried
I love nettles and feed them to everything (including us, excellent spring green) They lose their "sting" when dried (or cooked, which is how I eat them) They are very palatable and full of vitamins and minerals.
The leaves are a wonderful source of nutrients, containing a number of essential minerals including iron, calcium, potassium and magnesium.
This year I am going to harvest lots of nettle and dry it to feed in winter.
Good for: General health, Healthy skin and fur, respiratory strengthener, digestive restorative
Comfrey
(Symphytum officinale)
part used: leaves, fresh or dried
Comfrey has been used for centuries, recently highly debated as causing liver issues. I feel when used in moderation (a leaf, occasionally) it is a useful and safe herb for rabbits. It is one of the rare plants that contains the vitamin B12 and also rich in minerals such as calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, zinc, selenium and germanium.
Good for: digestive aid, healing, bone formation, ill bunnies, stressed and weak bunnies. First herb I reach for when a rabbit has a gut imbalance.
Dandelion
(Taraxacum officinale)
Part used: leaves, fresh or dried (do not feed wilted leaves as they can cause bloat)
Everyone knows dandelion but many don't know how wonderful it is for you and your animals, it's an exceptionally nutritious food and bunnies love it! Dandelion is loaded with nutrients including substantial levels of vitamins A, C, D, and B complex as well as iron, magnesium, zinc, potassium, manganese, copper, choline, calcium, boron, and silicon.
Good for: Blood purifying, respiratory ailments, anti-inflammatory, bladder infections, diarrhea, milk flow of nursing does
Alfalfa
(Medicago sativa)
Part used : leaf and stem
I debated including alfalfa since many rabbits get alfalfa based commercial rabbit pellets but as a fresh herb alfalfa is good stuff. Alfalfa is naturally high in many essential vitamins and minerals, including A, D, E, K, and even the full family of B vitamins; biotin, calcium, folic acid, iron, magnesium, potassium and many others, as well as being very high in protein, especially when dried
Good for: very good at detoxifying, balancing hormones, increases immune system functionality.
If you are harvesting your own, make sure you know how to correctly identify the plants.
The Complete Herbal Handbook for Farm and Stable
A good place to buy dried herbs is Mountain Rose Herbs
The amounts are not set in stone, an average sized rabbit will eat around a tablespoon of dried herb, which might be a small handful of fresh. Pay attention to the rabbit's appetite and preferences. Obviously use common sense in introducing new foods and feed herbs with a well balanced bunny diet.
This list is provided for informational purposes only. To the best of my knowledge, all the plants listed here are safe for rabbits when fed in moderation as directed
Nettles
(Urtica dioica)
part used: leaves, dried
I love nettles and feed them to everything (including us, excellent spring green) They lose their "sting" when dried (or cooked, which is how I eat them) They are very palatable and full of vitamins and minerals.
The leaves are a wonderful source of nutrients, containing a number of essential minerals including iron, calcium, potassium and magnesium.
This year I am going to harvest lots of nettle and dry it to feed in winter.
Good for: General health, Healthy skin and fur, respiratory strengthener, digestive restorative
Comfrey
(Symphytum officinale)
part used: leaves, fresh or dried
Comfrey has been used for centuries, recently highly debated as causing liver issues. I feel when used in moderation (a leaf, occasionally) it is a useful and safe herb for rabbits. It is one of the rare plants that contains the vitamin B12 and also rich in minerals such as calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, zinc, selenium and germanium.
Good for: digestive aid, healing, bone formation, ill bunnies, stressed and weak bunnies. First herb I reach for when a rabbit has a gut imbalance.
Dandelion
(Taraxacum officinale)
Part used: leaves, fresh or dried (do not feed wilted leaves as they can cause bloat)
Everyone knows dandelion but many don't know how wonderful it is for you and your animals, it's an exceptionally nutritious food and bunnies love it! Dandelion is loaded with nutrients including substantial levels of vitamins A, C, D, and B complex as well as iron, magnesium, zinc, potassium, manganese, copper, choline, calcium, boron, and silicon.
Good for: Blood purifying, respiratory ailments, anti-inflammatory, bladder infections, diarrhea, milk flow of nursing does
Alfalfa
(Medicago sativa)
Part used : leaf and stem
I debated including alfalfa since many rabbits get alfalfa based commercial rabbit pellets but as a fresh herb alfalfa is good stuff. Alfalfa is naturally high in many essential vitamins and minerals, including A, D, E, K, and even the full family of B vitamins; biotin, calcium, folic acid, iron, magnesium, potassium and many others, as well as being very high in protein, especially when dried
Good for: very good at detoxifying, balancing hormones, increases immune system functionality.
If you are harvesting your own, make sure you know how to correctly identify the plants.
The Complete Herbal Handbook for Farm and Stable
A good place to buy dried herbs is Mountain Rose Herbs
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Thursday, June 13, 2013
Summer time :)
We have been pretty busy
Moon, one of my Silver Fox does seems to be pregnant, I bred her with my Mom's buck and I'm excited to see what she produces. It doesn't look like Amelia (Holland Lop) is pregnant after all, so she will be rebred soon and I am looking for a second Holland Lop doe.
The Silkie and Maran chicks are doing well, almost feathered out and spending most of their time in the outdoor baby chick cage. I feel it is important for them to get lots of time outside and the weather has been great for it.
The incubator is full again, this time with Araucanas, Blue Laced Red and Golden Wyandottes and a couple bantams. Hatch day is June 24th and we will be selling a few Araucanas chicks.
Moon, one of my Silver Fox does seems to be pregnant, I bred her with my Mom's buck and I'm excited to see what she produces. It doesn't look like Amelia (Holland Lop) is pregnant after all, so she will be rebred soon and I am looking for a second Holland Lop doe.
The Silkie and Maran chicks are doing well, almost feathered out and spending most of their time in the outdoor baby chick cage. I feel it is important for them to get lots of time outside and the weather has been great for it.
The incubator is full again, this time with Araucanas, Blue Laced Red and Golden Wyandottes and a couple bantams. Hatch day is June 24th and we will be selling a few Araucanas chicks.
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Hello!
heh. So I suck at posting.
This is going to be our farm blog, I post about more horse related stuff here: http://dangerbunny.blogspot.com/
Things are good, The Smooshy is a year old (where did the time go???) He is super fun, walking, talking and causing trouble. I love looking at pictures from this time last year because he was so tiny (relatively)
Recently my friend, Melissa and I went to our first rabbit show, took two of my Silver Fox kits, they did well. The show was really disorganized and I can't see myself getting super psyched about rabbit shows but it was interesting and the feedback I got on my babies was nice. Came home with three Holland Lops, I love me some Lop ears and since I'm finding the Angora's fur care too time intensive I really wanted a second breed. The Lops are perfect, cute and small with these really engaging personalities, plus the ears just slay me.
We once again have too many roosters, out of my 8 silkies we have 3 hens. I do love my silkies though they have such funny personalities. We have a lot of plans for our chickens this year and I just set up a farm facebook account!
Today I am setting up the incubators, it's a good idea to run them for a bit to stabilize the temperature and work out the kinks before putting precious eggs into them. I think I found some local Silkie hatching eggs and hopefully more Marans since we only got two Roos out of the last batch.
now pictures!
This is going to be our farm blog, I post about more horse related stuff here: http://dangerbunny.blogspot.com/
Things are good, The Smooshy is a year old (where did the time go???) He is super fun, walking, talking and causing trouble. I love looking at pictures from this time last year because he was so tiny (relatively)
Recently my friend, Melissa and I went to our first rabbit show, took two of my Silver Fox kits, they did well. The show was really disorganized and I can't see myself getting super psyched about rabbit shows but it was interesting and the feedback I got on my babies was nice. Came home with three Holland Lops, I love me some Lop ears and since I'm finding the Angora's fur care too time intensive I really wanted a second breed. The Lops are perfect, cute and small with these really engaging personalities, plus the ears just slay me.
We once again have too many roosters, out of my 8 silkies we have 3 hens. I do love my silkies though they have such funny personalities. We have a lot of plans for our chickens this year and I just set up a farm facebook account!
Today I am setting up the incubators, it's a good idea to run them for a bit to stabilize the temperature and work out the kinks before putting precious eggs into them. I think I found some local Silkie hatching eggs and hopefully more Marans since we only got two Roos out of the last batch.
now pictures!
 |
| Lucky Dragon, My new Holland Lop buck |
 |
| Lupin, my Silver Fox jr buck |
 |
| Silver Fox Babies |
 |
| cute little buff .Silkies |
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